I am neck-deep with work at the SOPH (School of Public Health) but Jenny is ready to have me for a visit. In a week (last minute as always) I managed to get time off from research and book my flight to Uganda. I can finally meet the children who have become oh-so-dear to Jenny (as well, reunite with my dear friend Oj from when I was completing my masters at UQ). I guess you could say that Jenny is neck-deep with developing her very own NGO (and I am ecstatic to witness some of the process).
As you might remember, Jenny and Mrs. Martin were busy working all through the month of April and May. Oj (a friend of mine) has been extremely supportive of Jenny's project and has offered one of his dear friend/consultant, Paul, to help with the planning phase. Jenny will be co-directing an NGO called Africare Community Initiative (ACI). So far, she has been meeting with key stakeholders in the Masaka region and planning out her objectives and key activities for the first year of the project. Between long days of meetings and managing chores at the orphanage, Jenny and Mrs. Martin still made time for the children, providing them with as much TLC as possible.
Mrs. Martin had to fly back home at the end of May so Jenny has been working on her own for the past 3 weeks. As soon as I was given the 'OK' to come and visit her, I hoped on a plane and was ready to help with whatever possible. Jenny was down to her last 2 weeks in Uganda and in this time we were hoping to develop community support for the project while making time for the children. The work sounded overwhelming but all my focus was on reuniting with Oj and Jenny. Work can wait till the morning.
Day 1
I arrived in Entebbe on a Monday night, 7pm (as I had a 14h transfer in Jo'burg from Cape Town). Once in Uganda, Jenny and Oj were waiting for me at the airport, cameras flashing and with open arms! They were so sweet to have come and meet me. We then immediately headed to grab some dinner. The air was nice and warm (I thought at the time) as I have been freezing my tosh-off in Cape Town. As we arrive to the restaurant, I had to look and reassure myself that in fact the security guards in the parking lot were actually holding shot guns. Double-take confirmed. Too happy to care at the time, we went inside the restaurant to enjoy food and company. We chatted about life and updated each other of our stories which included: how to make our world a better place. Once we have emptied our thoughts I then turned to Jenny and asked the questions........How did you manage to become a director of an NGO ?
She looked at me with a kind smile on her face and said: It's a long story. So I listened. Basically, for Jenny to be able to work in Uganda she needs to be registered. The ACI is actually a dormant project initiated by Oj as he has been busy managing other priorities. Jenny was given the offer to establish her own NGO thereby 1) giving her possibilities to work in Uganda and 2) providing the community of her interest with capacity building activities. These activities should in return strengthen families (and their income) with the hope that such empowerment will benefit the children as well.
After our wonderful dinner we headed for a sleep at Oj's welcoming home. It was very surreal experience to be in his home and talk about some of our memories while attending UQ. This was also my very first time sleeping under a mosquito net. Jenny provided a crash course on making sure I took water (and anything else I would need throughout the night) under the net with me, since tucking in the net was a timely procedure. Doxycycline also check.
Day 2
Both Oj and the rooster next door were busy enjoying the morning sun. I too woke up early as I was still excited to be in Uganda and even more excited to get to Masaka early and meet the children. Oj has told us to walk down to lake Victoria while he's at work and to be back at 10am so he can drive us to the bus stop. Of course, we took our sweet time to walk into town and just as we arrived Oj called to say "hurry back". "Hop on the boda-boda" says Jenny. Wait, hop on what ? These motorbikes called boda-bodas are everywhere and it is considered the local taxi. I have seen them but didn't think I will be utilizing them while in Uganda. Well, I only had to step outside on my first morning, the opportunity was there and we had to get back to the house fast. Jenny suggest we each take one, but I pledged for taking one (clearly I'm terrified at this point and being with her is better than flying solo with a stranger). We hop on (me in the back) and we are off. No helmets, skirts flopping behind us, no problem. As we are pulling up to Oj's place, he has got his camera out and taking pictures of us, he is already thinking "this is a great Ugandan experience for Renata". Boy he was right !
I'm smiles ear to ear, and SOB (short-of-breath) in hopes for a safe return from the center. We were going through pot holes and mostly on dirt road as if it was no one's business. I am now thinking to myself "what did I sing myself up for" but being with Jenny sure will make this experience worth while. Oj takes us to the bus stop and we are off to Masaka via Kampala.
In Kamapla: I have ridden in mini taxis (in Cape Town) and have also experienced driving on
dirt roads (growing up in Romania) however, I have never in my life combined the two. The closer we got into Kampala the worse off the roads were. We were bouncing all over the place and hitting our heads off the ceiling of the taxi. The taxi station in the city was our final destination but only to transfer to another mini taxi and head to Masaka. Hurray, another 2-3 hours in a crammed mini bus is exactly what we were looking for !
Arriving to Kampala central taxi stations was an experience of its own kind. We get out........ and then I have this strong feeling that there is something wrong. OMG, am I naked?! I quickly look down to re-assure myself that this morning I DID remember to get dressed and I did so properly. So then why do I feel as if I am completely naked??? Jenny hops out the mini bus and she runs to fetch her bag from the back. During this time I feel very alone and surrounded by people (mostly men) and they are staring, intensely staring. The only thing I can make out form their conversation is "Muzungu" and looking intensely into my eyes (this is when I decide to forget about eye contact all together).
Being stared at in the townships near Cape Town and being stared at in Kampala are two very distinctively different sensations. People have surrounded me in just a few seconds stepping out of the mini-bus, and just like a celebrity everyone is murmuring something. I quickly give up on listening to their words and I just want to call out for Jenny to rescue me.... oh, hold up, she's back and we are running to the next mini bus. While sitting in the second bus and waiting for take off, there were people coming around trying to sell us anything from drinks to snacks to all sorts of accessories, oh and even air time. You HAVE to be there to see this!
Day3-4
The next few days are spent getting to know the communities around the orphanage. Jenny has assured for us to stay at the nearest monastery where sister Katherine and William has become our care takers, or more like sweet parents. This little monastery is self-sufficient by selling milk and allowing tourist groups to stay at their place. It is a sweet heaven away from the busy buzz of the major cities. Even though major cities in rural communities are still very rural, it's nice to spend time at the monastery.
Jenny tells me that each morning and night, William and sister Katherine make sure that we have enough food in our bellies and that our heads rest comfortably so we are strong enough for our busy days. At this point I have little knowledge in what's waiting for us, but I didn't need a crash course on the future plans as the morning was near us, so let the work begin ! (I must include that Jenny does look a bit slender and she tells me that her tummy has been acting up. William kept a good check on her that she eats well, but there is only so much you can eat with an upset tummy.)
In the morning I am introduced to Paul, who is the consultant helping Jenny with her work. I am told little of the days plans, we eat and start our walk. We end up walking by the orphanage but in great distance away. We are trying to stay clear from the director but again I only know bits and pieces of the story at this point. We are in search of the chief in each community surrounding the orphanage. We walk to where people amongst the farm fields point us to.
Each introduction began with greetings, sitting down with the man of the house hold, while the women sit on the ground. Jenny and I listen, while Paul did the talking. Once in a while we smile when we get called 'muzungues'. We nod when Paul nods about 'money' and 'helping'. This goes on for most of the day. Walking, meeting, sitting, nodding, listening (holding back yawns once mid-day has past). The sun is beautiful and slowly roasting our exposed necks here and there. Each time a boda-boda passes us we move aside on the road and let them pass by while making our vision dusty ahead. I am always lagging behind on our walks as I am taking pictures above, below, ahead, behind, just about every angle you can think of. The views are breath taking and I hear myself saying, "you are truly here. This is the real story". I love every sight, smell, sound, and just want to hear more.
I wave each time we come across a home with children sitting in the dirty. They are laughing and waving back, "MUZUNGU"!!! Some come to greet us and shake our palms, for good manners but
also driven by curiosity of the white skin. Big smiles make me want to wave and greet more and more people. Webale! Webale ! Oliotya! Everyone seems very friendly in the rural communities. Mind you, we are walking through what feels as jungles and only seeing a house every so often. Coffee plantations, banana, mango, cassava, avos, mangoes, corn and sweet potato just to name a few. I'm sure there are more which I'm forgetting to list off. Jack fruit would has to be my most favourite intrigue. It's big, bigger then anything I can picture growing on a small sized tree. Curiosity will not let up so I did manage to try one from the market.
To sum up our days, we walked 20-30h a day, talked or
listened about 15h of it. By our last and final day we got on bodas to try and save our feet. From the long walks and hot days, Jenny and I ate very well each dinner time. We managed on 2 meals a day. Each night we would be up talking about life and innovations. Jenny and I enjoy heart to hearts so sleeping was really our most deprived source. But we budgeted for that. I only had a few days in Uganda so we were going to make the most of it.
Even though we managed to get ahead of our work each day, I did not meet the children till the very last day/sunset. We were exhausted, but forced to make our last day worthy. We hopped on a boda and zoomed to the children. They knew I was coming so not greeting them was just not an option. We happen to meet up with the children on their walk home form school. Their faces light up, Auntie Jenny!!!! Auntie Renata!!! They knew my name so well. We decided to walk home with them and spend time
talking. Due to our busy last few days, this walk is the only quality time they will have with me. Once at the orphanage, I meet the mother and chef at the orphanage. The children have to fetch water 1km walk away so we all grab jugs and head to the water source.
We sing and laugh and run and giggle during our walk. The children are smiles ear to ear and enjoy saying my name. I tickle and chase them. Makes the walk seem shorter when distracted. I am saddened to see their water source once we arrive. There are many children who come to this same water source. It is shared by many of the farming communities and also their cattle. It is used for washing and drinking is not a proper water source for the children. Once we filled our bottles it's time to head on home. The older the child the larger the jug which they carry. Of course, the children gave me 2 very small containers but I carried them while they laughed at the sight. As we got closer to the orphanage, some of the older children who already put their water jugs off came running to help me with mine. Kindness and laughter were our forms of communication when English did not work.
The sun was setting fast and we had to get back to the monastery for our last meal. I gave each of the children their gifts and we rushed off. Eating our dinners I was reflecting on our 3 amazing days. We managed to spread good news of Jenny and her organization. We managed to gain support from most of the village leaders who are aware of the orphanage. And, the most exciting of it all was that Jenny and Paul was invited to attend the regions board meeting and get municipal support. I unfortunately did not get a chance to attend this meeting but my fingers were crossed for the 2 of them. Everything was slowly falling into place for Jenny and I felt very fortunate to have been able to witness her journey.
We said our good-byes in the morning, hugging sister Katherine and William knowing that I have little certainty in our next visit. Deep inside I stay hopeful for seeing them again, but for now we had to rush off to Kampla and Entebbe for my last day/night in Uganda.
Note: I did not go into details of our 18 person taxi ride in a sedan, collecting furniture from a children's school on a ute, and other crazy traffic incidences. Uganda traffic regulations do not exist. If it has more then 2 wheels and and engine (motor/ man-power) can be used with or without safe equipment. Foot ware is also optional.
Day 5 - Friday
We arrived much later then expected. Oj had a 24h schedule on what we needed to accomplish
before my 6am flight. With little energy left, we just followed our plan. Quick stop for souvenires. Then off to dinner. After dinner we rushed to meet Oj's son ! What a cute thing. Chubby and healthy both mom and baby ! After spending time with under weight children it was nice to hold a full weight baby. Once baby fell asleep, we headed to Oj's friends place, Sylvia, and start our evening of bar hopping.
Jenny and I only needed about one beer each to experiment with grasshoppers. Jenny has mentioned that she has purchased these for the children as it is considered delicacy. I was offered by one very cute child in a taxi ride to try and I still regret not taking it. He was so sincere and kind and I felt like a scary muzungu rejecting his kind offer.
The opportunity came to me once again and grasshoppers DO taste lovely when fried in butter.
After a great night of dancing it was time to head to the airport. I only had time to shower. Oj and Jenny had little energy left. I was worried about them falling asleep at the wheel. Hugs and good wishes were our final words.
I was wide awake again. Never enjoy leaving friends. Especially when there is uncertainty in my return. I can only wish that life and opportunities will grant me another visit to my dear friend Oj and Sylvia.
