Thursday, November 10 am, ROAD TRIP!
We started our road trip driving through the Little Karoo and by the time we reached our destination I believe there was an extra 560kms reading on the meter. It was sunset by the time we made it to the Karoo Soul backpackers where we spent the night. The only two places we stopped were: 1) to switch drives and enjoy the amazing view (the dry and rocky mountains didn't seem real, rather as if I was looking at the National Geographic magazine) and 2) a loo break at a German owned mud hut. We ended up having a quick meal there, and continued our drive in order to make they journey before sunset. For dinner, we ended up walking in the dark to the nearest restaurant where we had blankets for sitting outside, heaters above us, and wifi to check our emails. I remember having a very nice meal that night and the wine as always, divine.
Friday, November 11, 2011
Since we were already in Odtshoorn, the ostrich farm capital, Dan had his heart set on visiting with them. I did not share his excitement for the activity however, I noticed a sign that read 'ostrich riding for an extra 40R' which was a bonus for Dan. He would not miss out on an opportunity like that!
After getting a taste of the Little Karoo we were off to the Garden Route.
We continued our drive through Knysna. A beautiful village with opportunities for boat cruises, fishing, and hiking. However, this day was overcast and we had along way to Eastern Cape. Throughout our trip we notice a label which read "Big Tree" and this would show up on our map as well as the trail maps we picked up along the way. There was a "Big Tree" coming up on our way to Plettenberg Bay however, somehow we missed it. We felt cheated as we were certain that we drove right past it, but we didn't notice any road signs pointing out where this tree was. Curious and intrigued, we marked the next "Big Tree" on our way and we were certain that this time we would stop and see this tree.
We stopped and walked through Plets bay, as the locals call it. From the top of the rolling hills you could see the beaches and the beautiful rip curls. After a walk on the beach we were back in the car hoping to make it to our next stop before sunset. We were always in a hurry to arrive to our next destination before sun set, as it was extremely difficult to drive on rural roads in the dark. Plus, driving at night was discouraged by most backpackers.
Note: The vegetation changes as we exit the Karoo of rocky fynbos to lush green tropical forest, as we approach towards the ocean.
Back in Cape Town, I picked up a Lonely Planet, 1993 from an antique shop and was curious to see how things have changed in South Africa since then. The book told us:
"The road to the east of Plet, however, is brilliant. Don't take the toll road (3.60R), but turn off to Nature's Valley and the Bloukrans Pass. It's a beautiful drive across a plain with plety of surviving fynbos but the road plunges in and out of deep gorges that have been cut by rivers running out to sea." (pg. 427)
But of course, this day we arrived just past sun set and by the time we finished dinner and got assistance on where to spend the night (from Trish, the owner of the restaurant in Nature's Valley), we had difficulties finding Rocky Road backpackers in the darkness. We drove up and down on the main dirt road until our determination fatigued in the search and we stopped at a small resort to ask for directions. There the chef came to try and explain where we had to take a turn however, both Dan and I were having difficulties understanding him. He decided to drive in front of us (he first had to finish preparing a few more meals) and we followed him to the intersection. It was so dark that we didn't even realize the bridge we drove past on our way in. That bridge was the intersection the chef was trying to explain, neh? We tipped the chef 50R because we had no change, lucky for him, and drove the rest of rocky road slowly, trying to keep the Ford Figo unscratched. At the hostel, we received a tent to sleep in, but nothing close to the ordinary. The next morning we realized we were in paradise. The backpacker had a jacuzi, outdoor showers, fresh green pastures and mountains surrounding us everyhwere. We were finally in Tsitsikamma National Park.
Saturday, November 12, 2011I could have spent the rest of the trip in Tsitsikamma, but I knew that the rest of South Africa was going to be breath taking in ways that was also worth experiencing. We spent a sunny and warm day hiking Salt River trail which was part of the famous Otter trail. We only did the shorter version which consisted a morning walk through volcanic rocks exposed by the low tide followed by a green forest hike up the mountain. We had the whole place to our selves at one point to swim, tan, and mingle with random tourists walking by.
Once we completed the hike, we went on our way, chased by time, in order to arrive at our next destination before sunset. We also found ourselves having to take the toll road which we tried to avoid when arriving to Nature's Valley. However, to get to Bloukrans Pass we had to pay not 3.60R (Lonely Planet, 1993) but a rocketing 35R (the book was worth the ready already). We stopped at each of the large bridges, till we realized the the large sign Bloukrans Bungee. We stopped and got out to take pictures of each of the sky-high bridges, and look down into the hundreds of meters below. Not my cup of tea.
Thank goodness the bungee place was closed and neither of us had to choose that day if we were ready to jump. We checked into Dijembe for the night, and Renata had her worst night ever. As they say in tennis: 15 all (we have now both have had a sick day, mine lasted a few days longer).
Sunday, November 13, 2011
I was still sick as a dog but I really wanted to see Jeffry’s bay and Paradise beach. However, in my condition, we drove by one, and didn't bother making it to the other, since no one was going to surf in the rain with a tummy ache. I slept most of the way and tried to get over this illness. I was also excited to get to our next destination: Addo Elephant Park.
Unfortunately we were not able to spend the night in the park so we stayed the night at a backpackers. This time it was called Orange Elephant and they had ROCKET SHOWERS! It was too cold to use them while we were there but we did get a crash course on how to use them.
Tomorrow we are off on our first Safari !
R :-)
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