The first two Nunaversary entries focused on introducing Nunavut through descriptions of the sights and smells (or as I explained, fragrances) of the north. However, there is more to what you see and smell up here.
The north comes with sounds, very unique to living up here. First, mother nature sounds very different in the spring and summer when the ice is melting and large boulder ice cubes race down the river. Compared to winter blizzards which shake the windows and doors when reaching 70 plus kilometers per hour. In my experience, this first year has given me a taste of each season and the corresponding sounds which by now (in my second year living up here) has become more familiar - though, I would say I'm still learning.
Here are a few descriptions which I think are important to highlight as they have captured my heart while living in the north:
Near Iqaluit located Sylvia Grinnelle park where a river cuts through. Each winter, this river freezes over completely, making it a wonderful cross country and dog sledding path. However, each spring (the photo below was taken mid to late May) the river thaws and the ice starts to break up.
The below images was from an outing which was planned for a snow mobile ride to a cabin but the bay was too flooded and with many cracks too risky to jump. So, our group decided to turn around and camp out at Sylvia G.
Our timing was spot on. The river ice was fully breaking up. It was my first time seeing the river break and the ice race down the river. I absolutely loved hearing the ice break on top of each other. Large boulder ice cubes were fighting each other as the river water pushed against them. The cracking, the friction among the ice was something I have never heard before. To me this was very special to witness and hear.
Breaking large ice bergs with your feet sounds much less intimidating compared to ice crushing together. When you kick your heel into the side of a berg, it actually sounds very gentle and sparkly. The small long pieces break off in a perfect orderly patters as they gently clink together like glass. Very cool to hear, and very neat to see such perfect long patterns created in the ice as it melts under the spring hot sun. It is very hot come spring and much of the snow melts within just a week or two.
Blizzards are again something very unique to the north. Hearing them for the first time was something else for me. Something very scary to hear.
As an urban nomad, I am used to seeing nature intertwined among city dwellers or among highways while you drive to the surf. However, this was my very first time living in a place where mother nature called the shots on when you work, and when you stay at home to keep safe.
Below is the view from my work window - and this blizzard started during work hours. The wind was coming from north, and blew directly into my window. This had to be my most terrifying experience. I only live 10 steps away from work, but I really did not know how it would work out on my walk home.
Once in my apartment, the blizzard kept roaring. This time however, the wind blew by my window, so I felt less threatened. Though the apartment would vibrate with each gust of wind hitting it. I felt a bit better watching the wind just blow by. It looked like as if someone recorded snow flakes fly by, at times faster and then slower. It did not seem real the first time experiencing a blizzard.
By blizzard number 4ish, and lasting up to 3 days - I experienced the other issue(s) of blizzards: cabin fever. I needed to leave the apartment and get food and get fresh air. Some people spend time walking around inside the apartment building however, that would not suffice someone like me - who needs fresh air every day. So, I dressed up, and headed into the blizzard. A home made playground became my entertainment on the way to shopping. While having fun and walking to the shop I realized that the only thing intimidating about a blizzard is the sound. It is loud, deep and comes in gusts. Otherwise, it felt warmer when walking, due to the cloud cover. When you have clear skies, the sun is the best part however, the air will be much much colder.
Animal sounds were much more common near Rankin Inlet.
I was very fortunate to see the caribou migrate while living in Rankin. Among gun shots you would also hear male caribou calls. They were mostly walking and keeping quiet while this photo was taken. However, if you look carefully, behind the rock is a hunter.
Snow geese also have their own unique calls and we heard them while camping just outside of Rankin.
Sik sik are very funny looking and fat little ground mouse. They too use a special call among them which is funny to hear - especially just outside my window.
Dogs can be heard in most communities I have visited so far. But the howls of Inuit sled dogs are something very magical. Especially when the Aurora is out and dancing.
Music in the North
I really enjoy listening to traditional Inuit music/songs - especially throat singing. However, square dancing is also very popular among the Inuit and therefore, I dance along and listen to pretty much anything that plays on the radio - CBC1 and CBC2.
But like among siblings, there is always a favourite - band that is. Meet the Jerry Cans. It is a mix of throat singing, Inuktitut folks songs and lots lots lots of square dance rhythm. I dance until the band plays, and that is a work out on its own. I don't quite understand how the band can play night after night such high energy songs - but please keep them coming!!
The Jerry Cans
The Jerry Cans CD was my very first purchase when arriving to Rankin Inlet. I have not stopped listening to them since.... and their new album is just as fantastic! I don't speak Inuktitut but I am pretty certain I can sing every song on their albums.
I was introduced to Elisapie Isaac in Iqaluit by some of my francophone friends. Her voice is very sweet and I'm sure her lyrics speak to the soul. She is one of the only singers who can sing in 3 languages: French, English and Inuktitut. Very powerful music.
Back to my Rankin days, along with buying the Jerry Cans CD, I also grabbed a CD by Beatrice Deer called - Fox. It is a mix of throat singing and indi-pop music which to those who are familiar with this genre know how amazing it is! Well, try listening with throat singing in the mix. I would have to say that Beatrice is my number 1 like, then Jerry Cans, and then Elisapie - though all three artists have such unique sounds, I would say they are equally the best!
I had the pleasure of meeting Beatrice in person during a fundraiser event in Iqaluit, Feb 2017.
(Puppy Love 2017)
Rankin Inlet Family Day 2016
Local talents are everywhere - and while living in Rankin, I had the pleasure of meeting Nelson Tagoona (listen to him at 2:50 in this interview)
In high school, I was a HUGE Rahzel fan, beatboxer, and to me Nelson captures Rahzels' talent and combined with traditional throat singing (traditionally a female talent) and makes it his own, and while listening to him I felt like I was 15 again at the Guelph Hillside Festival concert stage where I fell in love with Rahzel for the very first time.
Since my teenage years, as a synchronized swimming coach, I also choreographed a duet routine to Rahzel and Beastie Boys music, just so you get the sense how much I love this type of sound.
Agaaqtoq - A. Eetuk from Arviat is another local talent who I met in Rankin Inlet - and again his Inuktitut music is both modern but very traditional.
Kathleen Merritt - Ice lines & seal skin: Iva music performs Inuit throat singing and poetry fused with Celtic influenced folk music - bridging sounds from both her Inuit and Irish roots.
Oh my little heart - again, while in Rankin, I met Kathleen, heard her sweet voice and throat singing and instantly fell in love with her and her band's sound.
You have to buy her CD and hear the magic.
Mahaha Comedy Night
Elvira Kurt performing during a blizzard in 2016
All female comedy show rocked the Frobs on this night. However, most Mahaha nights are solid and filled with laughter.
Iqaluit Alianait - festival of the sounds
End of June, early July is another tourist attraction in Iqaluit - festival season!!!
For an entire week, day and night, there are performances from all across the globe - Greenland, Mongolia, Europe, and performing arts also includes theater.
Among nature and art, there's also the sounds of engineering. Planes of all sizes take off and land directly next to my office. Below is a photo of a Hercules CC-130J cargo craft. Below the herc, I believe, is a CF18 hornet - though I could be wrong. Did I mention I wanted to be a pilot in my teenage years.
I sometimes have to stop and exhale slowly (being in the present) to appreciate my current experiences. These sounds, and sights, have been so enriching and nourishing to my core. I have been on a long road of hard work, never looking up and around.
My first year in Nunavut was not just experiences, but a form of re-birth into a world I have never known. As if I never knew this much magic can exist, compact, in a place so far far away, but still on planet Earth.
But my experiences do not stop here - as there are more adventures ahead which worth mentioning.
Next up - Part 4 - Taste of the North ...
- R
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