Nunaversary: Part 5 - Things to do Above the 60th Parallel

(Blog entry published on day 1,005 days (aka: 2 years and 9 mo) in the Canadian Arctic - Feb 18, 2018)

Nunaversary blog entries were to capture my first 365 days of living in the Canadian Arctic through the five senses. Rather than explaining my adventures in chronological order, I had this idea that by using each sense to describe my experiences, a more comprehensive description would evolve. In turn, this would further help the reader(s) develop a deeper understanding about life in the North. (Note: My readership consists of me reminiscing about the past, and my mom).

In Part 1, Sights of the North, I tried to introduce the Arctic through my favourite photos, capturing views of the landscape, the people, the flora and fauna, and finally the art and culture of Inuit life, all in one post.  Part 2 was focusing on the smells and fragrances of the North, including differences between winter and summer, and the ways in which human waste impacts the land.  From here, Part 3 described the sounds of the North which included both nature and human performances, and as it uplifts the spirit. In addition, without picking favourites, Part 4, Taste of the North, has to be the one we can all easily connect with. As humans, a highly social species, food bring us together and keeps us connected over happy and difficult times. I've enjoyed describing these tastes which are unique to living in the Arctic. 

In this fifth and final blog entry, the focus is on describing the sense of touch but more about the feel of the Arctic. I try to capture the final sense through all the activities which make you come alive above the 60th parallel. These activities are the true source of excitement, adventure, discovery, lessons and endless joy, which are the feelings I've experienced and aim to capture here.

Generally, when I ask friends about their next adventure, it entails international travel. Some do spend time discovering the vast lands of Canada. However, prior to moving to the Arctic, I knew very few people who talked about saving up for a journey through the Canadian Arctic. This could be a biased demonstration however, I have met very few people who have purposefully traveled to the North to seek adventure. This is partly because travel to the North is less affordable, and one rather spend that same amount of money to leave the Canadian soil for more 'exotic' places. 

However, those who dare to travel north of the 60th parallel are in for a great surprise. Below you can read about my experiences (though I would say, a limited list) while imagining the feelings it can ignite within you, as if your were there with me.

1. ATVs (called Hondas regardless of the make) as transportation: 

Riding hondas was my first lesson when spending summer in the North. Hondas (aka: ATVs) are a common transport in Rankin and most of the smaller communities. Iqaluit has grown to become a city sprawl, no longer fit for walking distances. But Hondas are popular summer vehicles to get around the tundra in most communities in Nunavut.

At first, I feared driving hondas.  However, on this particular day, I was forced to learn to drive one, because when you drive a honda, you risk tipping and breaking a wrist.

While everyone survived this ordeal, we did not make it to the Diane river for fishing as planned. Though the victim not only has a great story to tell after (and all those who witnessed) but she kept her fashion sense.

2. Who said you cannot swim in the Arctic?!

Well, we did. However, we didn't see many locals following our footsteps, or more like Honda tracks. I was told that inner-tubes make for great fun down the lazy river in the summer. On a semi-hot summer day in Rankin, with a few Hondas, we hit the road for a quick swim.

Mosquitoes, horseflies, and a few other bugs had a great feast on us, as the caribou has just migrated a few days prior. On this day, the thermometer read maybe 20 degrees, but the water did not reflect this temperature.

The brave souls had a blast in the water, I got eaten alive by horse flies even before removing my clothes. Funnily enough, my belly button housed a few of them. Grosssss, but no pain :)

3. Hiking in the Arctic

Any season, any weekend, you can hike.  Walking is the best way to discover the surroundings. While it is more difficult to cover large distances on two feet, it is still a wonderful past time activity. Whether walking on spring ice on the bay, or tundra, or snow, it is a breathtaking experience.

Most hikes in Rankin became treasure hunts. Bones, full caribou skulls, and interesting items left behind by humans all make for a great weekend adventure.

4. Ice jumping

The day started with ice jumping and followed by discoveries under the ice - first a crab ....then ..... bones!!!! At first Alicia and I thought it was human, she's an OT and me, a nurse, worst things comes first to mind.

But after a quick google search - polar bear bones look very similar to human ones - we concluded that these infact are nanuq bones - head missing.

5. Boating, boating, and build a boat for boating 

Marble island is an adventure not many has the chance to get to - it comes with stories of boat wrecks and many deaths - see the link for more stories and mysteries.

Marble Island - Experience the Mystery

Boating to find clams - Iqaluit ...

... and when you don't have a boat, you build one!

This was the Canada day boat race in Rankin Inlet (2015) - rules: use nothing but cardboard and duck tape - and that is what we did

Except, Nicole ended up getting soaked and rescued half way

the winner !!!! 

Those without a boat, raced their snow-machines on water. What nightmares are made of !!! 

6. BINGO Time!!! 

Nunavut's past time activity! You have not lived until you have organised a bingo night with friends :)

7. Have you ever played with the sun? 

When we aren't building a boat or trying to win large amounts of cash .....we play with the sun :)

Rankin Inlet Sun - This photo made it in CBC North and CBC Nunavut in 2015, if I remember correctly !

Iqaluit Sun - equally fun to play with when hiking on the land, 2016

8. Sundays call for building a sauna ...! 

A few friends have talked about using pallets from the dump and building a sauna - so, my naive self suggested - let's build a sauna.  And here is the result. (2016)

A structure from pallets collected from the dump - heated rocks in the fire pit - water from the river - a few tarps and VOILA! We got so hot that we even dipped in the river - then stayed lying on the tundra to get rid of our heat.  AMAZING !!!!

9. Bonfires ...every day of the week during the summer months ! 

During the summer - when we refer to the Arctic "land of the midnight sun" - most of us had trouble sleeping - so the best way is to spend most evenings are bonfires - till 2am - then try to get some sleep before the next work day.

These are views at 2AM in July (2016)

10. Ultimate frisbee in the Arctic 

Yes, you can play ultimate frisbee in the Arctic - but only during the summer months.  This is when the indoor ice is melted - and a turf is placed - which allows for soccer and ultimate games.

#Bliss

11. Toonik Tyme - Celebrating the return of Spring in Iqaluit

Toonik Tyme celebrations occurs the middle of April - when the weather is most unpredictable - as winter and summer fights for the next seasonal podium.  Summer usually winds but takes a few more weeks until winter gives up closer to June.

The celebrations occur over 1 week - with 2 weekends. There is music, food, snowmachine and dog sledding races and many other fun events. It is also the most popular time for tourist to come and visit Iqaluit - as the snow is still plenty but the sun has power - getting our faces tanned.

Skijoring event at Toonik Tyme

I had the chance to learn in 2017 - a year later.

12. Overnight Cabin Adventure  

March 2016 - a few of us geared up with camping gear, food and skis for an overnight cabin adventure.  Still my most favourite experience!  

13. Dressing for the Occasion: Developing your own dressing 'system' for Arctic adventures 

Unless you have expensive arctic gear - you have to find ways to layer up for adventures on the sea-ice and beyond...

These photos were taken to prepare my parents visit in April 2017 - I was showing the layering system I have developed over the years.  (Note: a good friend suggested using man's whool pants as a mid-layer for insulation, and I have really enjoyed this additional method)

14. Snowmachine adventures in Iqaluit  

Additional entry: 

As I complete the final Nunversary blog posts - I am just 1 mo shy of celebrating my second year in the Arctic. However, I cannot complete this post about "things to do above the 60th parallel" without including my experience with building an igloo that we end up using overnight.

I have helped friends build igloos before, but in this case the building process was completed for the purpose of camping out overnight. 

April 2017 seemed to bring a much warmer spring than the year before and therefore, we were able to take advantage of two major ingredients for successful igloo camping - packed snow prior to melting and warm enough days to sleep outside with the right gear. 

A bit of planning and a few friends to help build and lend gear, we were able to follow through with spending a night in our igloo. The set up looked like this: 

- 2 tarps 

- carboard 

- matts 

- an open sleeping bag 

- each person with -20 and -30 sleeping bag 

I even had my parka around my legs and another layer around my back inside the sleeping bag. I was shivering until all the extra stuffing in my bag got warmed up...but at the first hour I was nervous it was time to head home. We persisted and conquered this quest ! 

In concluding my five part Nunaversary blog entries: 

Though this blog entry, and all Nunaversary entries attempted to describe my own experiences while living in the Canadian Arctic, I'm sure, there are many other activities not mentioned here but available for all ages and abilities. 

I captured my first year in the North in order to build my memory bank of all that is possible above the 60th parallel. I was captivated by life in the Arctic and I did not want to forget any of it. However, I also hope to have presented, through my experiences, the vastness, the beauty, and the never ending opportunities for a fulfilled life in the North. 

When one chooses to live near the edges of the world, you are exposed to a very different lifestyle, experiences with local culture and elder's stories, and a work-life balance I have never known about previously. This might very well be possible in dense city and suburb living, but I have yet to find such peace, harmony, and belonging - even when I spend my days completely alone. 

Quality of life has always been my personal direction or philosophy - and my call of duty in my volunteer and paid career. By experiencing life in various places thus far such as the Arctic, near the Pacific Islands, South Africa and Uganda, I am realizing that traditional ways of living have benefits in fulfilling quality within one's life.  

The biggerst calling for me remains, stories. I grew up listening to my grandmother talk about stories, about my family, our ancestors, about war and surviving them. About being refugees, about never being accepted in a society based on citizenship by birth. About small things and major life changing events. 

I have lived some of these same events within my lifetime - and a nomad since an early age - I am constantly on the search for the things familiar to me - which reminds me of home. 

While I continue my nomadic journeys - so far, the Arctic, seems to have presented many of the things I have searched for across the globe - quality of life through a holistic existence. 

I can only wish for everyone to experience such euphoria at some point in their lives. 

Thanks for reading.

- R :)

PS: In the summer of 2017 I had the most amazing experience of all - an Arctic Expedition which one could only dream of.  Next blog post will be describing my adventure of an Arctic Safari just outside of Qikiqtarjuaq - so stay tuned... 

R :)